I watched a bit about bouldering yesterday and I am sure I heard they could not practise or even see the wall before they climbed it
2021 Summer Olympics (Tokyo)
- Thread starter Samid
- Start date
Cheers!
That is fascinating! I reckon there will be certain patterns that are so common that they got their own name, kind of like chess openings?
Ganna again! Gold! With world record too!
how has GB cycling fallen so far behind, Italy just won in WR time , 8 seconds better than GB's Rio Gold winning time.
He is pretty amazing. We had a lead of almost a second until he took his final lead. Massive letdown for Denmark, since this was one of our biggest hopes for gold going in, but then again they also broke the WR so can't really be too mad - Italy were just a fraction better today.
feck that Danish team. So glad they got beaten by the Italians.
How many of the same cyclists are there from Rio? Jason Kenny basically retired and came back. It could be a bit like the rowing, that they are building a new team and Paris is when we will see the medals.
WR records always get beaten in track cycling, it's an equipment heavy sport.
Cheers, make sense.
Brilliant win by the Indian Ravi Kumar to get to the 57 Kg wrestling finals. Was down 9-2 with a little over a minute to go. Got a 1, then a 2, then another 2 and then a pin to finish the game with 45 secs to spare.
seeing has you mentioned Paris, will it affect teams , not just cycling with it being only 3 years away instead of the normal 4.
In both cycling and rowing there's also been a culture change in coaching. Team GB cycling had a bullying scandal with the coaches being accused of treating the riders like machines rather than people which affected some athletes mental health. They've been trying to figure out a more compassionate way of treating the athletes whilst attaining results. Raw talent levels will always go in cycles as well, for want of a better phrase
There's also been an unusually high number of Olympians making their debuts for team GB as a whole this time so we're at the beginning of a new cycle (hopefully).
I was watching this today and was intrigued by this. Of course having the same route means you can have a record system etc. that is consistent. However, it feels a bit like you would be losing the added dimension of different routes suiting different athletes. I'm not enough of an expert, but at the very top level of any sport tiny differences will suit certain athletes, so is there a case that the current route has 'locked in' advantages for certain climbers?
Difficult one. There might be cyclists, rowers etc, who are not even at these games. You would think they are using these Olympics as preparation for the next one, the up and coming athletes will just be carrying on with their preparation as normal. There might be a star out there who has not yet been discovered.
In a shocking turn of events, the Dutch field hockey women won! God if only we were this good at football.
I don’t think so. There’s actually a few different ways the same route can be climbed and the optimal approach has evolved quite a bit over the years. Ultimately the event will favour certain body types in the same way that sprinting does (tall, strong, explosive) but tweaks to the way the holds are set won’t make much difference.
2016 Olympic gold medalist Helen Maroulis vs 2016 Olympic gold medalist Risaka Kawai
Yeah, I think depending on size and style there are a couple of versions on how to climb it, which hold to skip and which to use. I think there isn't much improvement left with regards to how to climb it, although I think recently someone discovered a way to do the lower part even better (not sure about that tho).
It definitely suits some more than others but it's like that in ever sport. Size can be an advantage in terms of reach but also a disadvantage in terms of explosiveness, I think neither of the speed specialists is too tall.
Generally in climbing, the most important physical advantage is "ape index" which is arm reach/height. If it's well above 1 than it's good for climbing.
Overall I'm not too clued up about speed climbing because it's been quite a niche category for years with boulder and lead more interesting in my opinion. Now with it being part of the Olympics combined format it's been rushed into everyone's focus so we might see more quick developments with regards to technique and approach over the next years.
AFAIK speed climbing used to be a discipline that top climbers from lead and bouldering looked down on, because (for them) climbing is all about solving new and difficult problems and not just speed on a standardized. Overall, it is a bit weird to mash all these disciplines together and the results are a bit funny, with most athletes having one discipline where they placed much worse/better than in others. With all the different running, cycling and swimming events, surely other sports can have some differentiation between different disciplines as well (at least speed climbing will be a separate event by 2024, I understand).
Once again - absolute bullshit use of the shot clock against an American wrestler. It’s amazing how that happens.
Feel similar about the weightlifting. At European and Worlds they give out medals for Snatch, Clean & Jerk and Total. At the Olympics they give them out for Total only. With the amount of different disciplines in track, pool, cycling all being given medals its certainly frustrating.
Hassan looks like she refuses to lose any race, even if it's a heat or SF. I hope she manages the treble, it would be an amazing achievement.
However, the pundit you cited a couple of days ago who thought the men's EC win was masking their weaknesses turned out to be right, out in the quarters!
Women however, big favorites for the final. Nevertheless I hope India does it, would be huge for hockey in the country.
Back to climbing, boulder 4 is an absolute beast. Crazy how they're all hanging on it, limbs randomly tangled like spiders trying to figure out how to move on.
The pocket holds under the volume look absolutely brutal on the fingers. Wonder how the heavier men would get on?
Yeah, true! He went on to share texts his son send him complaining about the head coach as well.
I think in general it's mostly the women that are really good.
Thought that GB beat Netherlands in the women's final 2016?
Is hockey popular in Holland or other European countries?
Think Holland are World Champions so ranked first in the world, so result not that surprising.
Absolutely disgusting
Looking forward to see Garnbrett on it, absolutely cruising through the competition at the moment.
Absolutely disgusting
Looking forward to see Garnbrett on it, absolutely cruising through the competition at the moment.
Ha! I typed that exact phrase on a whatsapp with bouldering pals just now.
Flash coming up now…
EDIT: Feck me. She’s not human.
By the way, if anyone is a Sky subscriber you can get 12 months of the Discovery + App as a free gift. Which gives you on demand coverage of every event. Only found out this morning. Game changer.
Re: skateboarding and its younger participants. That's no coincidence. They openly stated, in their Olympic Agenda 2020, and when announcing the new sports, that they were prioritising more 'youth centred' sports in order to appeal to the youth / urban market.
IOC President Thomas Bach said, “We want to take sport to the youth. With the many options that young people have, we cannot expect any more that they will come automatically to us. We have to go to them. Tokyo 2020’s balanced proposal fulfils all of the goals of the Olympic Agenda 2020 recommendation that allowed it. Taken together, the five sports are an innovative combination of established and emerging, youth-focused events that are popular in Japan and will add to the legacy of the Tokyo Games.”
That's the main target audience for most things nowadays, in order to get positive PR - anything that appeals to other markets is seen / portrayed as more of an anachronism.
IOC President Thomas Bach said, “We want to take sport to the youth. With the many options that young people have, we cannot expect any more that they will come automatically to us. We have to go to them. Tokyo 2020’s balanced proposal fulfils all of the goals of the Olympic Agenda 2020 recommendation that allowed it. Taken together, the five sports are an innovative combination of established and emerging, youth-focused events that are popular in Japan and will add to the legacy of the Tokyo Games.”
That's the main target audience for most things nowadays, in order to get positive PR - anything that appeals to other markets is seen / portrayed as more of an anachronism.
Johnson-Thompson injured
Johnson-Thompson injured
She seems to be one of those perpetually unlucky athletes. I'm glad she got the world championship gold so she's got that one.
Johnson-Thompson injured
She was injured coming into the competition and was a risk of not even making it, I assume it's her Achilles that's flared up again? what a shame for her.
Yeah, it's the achilles. She refused a wheelchair to hop over the line which made it even worse to watch.
Heartbreaking for KJT. She did well to get here and put in a good showing in the early events - so sad she couldn't see it through.
My guy really out here riding a horse called Explosion W.
how dare you
Another gold for GB. Slowly creeping up the medals tables.