Yeah it says it happened this morning so the storm itself has long passed in that area so he wouldn't have been riding in the hurricane? Surfing like this isn't uncommon and he was a pro so he knew what could potentially happen. Sometimes in these sports you get got, it's very sad especially so young though.
Indeed mate. I suspect a mixture of youthful exuberance, naivety and ignorance were all to blame. He probably thought it was his opportunity to ride some possible once in a lifetime waves and unfortunately paid the price for doing so.
All extreme sports require people to push the limits, be it their own or the elements. It's just sad he had to lose his life and my heart goes out to his friends and family.
Anyone who has surfed before knows the difference between clean and dirty seas, and you take a risk every single time you step on your board but especially so in dirty or messy waves. It's a shame for sure because this lad was set to become a future world champ. There's some good memorial vids already up on youtube. This lad was well loved and will sadly be missed.