2021 Summer Olympics (Tokyo)

I have to say I don't really understand the scoring. I've always thought they should've given out separate medals for the 3 disciplines anyway.
They multiple their rankings for each event and then the lowest score wins. So if you top 1 discipline but get 5th in the other two, you end with a score of "25". Not a fan of it really. Should be the average of all 3 imo.
 
My fiancée used to climb with the Coleman guy who looks like he's getting bronze. Pretty cool.
Edit: Silver! Nice.
 
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I have no clue what's going on. Neither did the Austrian guy by the looks of things :lol:
 
I have no clue what's going on. Neither did the Austrian guy by the looks of things :lol:
If the Austrian passed Lopez mark, Ondra would have gotten gold. But if he passed Ondra's mark, then Lopez would get gold. And he did, so Lopez got gold. And since He gets 1 point for winning the Lead event, he gets the bronze cause of the combined total.
EDIT: Clearly I was also confused. Coleman, not Ondra.
 
If the Austrian passed Lopez mark, Ondra would have gotten gold. But if he passed Ondra's mark, then Lopez would get gold. And he did, so Lopez got gold. And since He gets 1 point for winning the Lead event, he gets the bronze cause of the combined total.
It honestly makes sense that the 3 specialty winners make the podium

Though the absence of the injured brother kinda screwed things up. Need to change the rules there
 
What the hell just happened? What a complete farce of scoring. :lol: I'm happy climbing is finally represented but seriously, this needs a complete overhaul next time. Starting with the most obvious: three separate disciplines ffs. You don't ask an endurance runner to compete in the sprint.
 
Climbing has been a revelation as a TV-sport. Great entertainment! Probably the single sport I've spent most time watching throughout the olympics.

Gutted for Ondra. From 1st to 6th with two moves.
 
If the Austrian passed Lopez mark, Ondra would have gotten gold. But if he passed Ondra's mark, then Lopez would get gold. And he did, so Lopez got gold. And since He gets 1 point for winning the Lead event, he gets the bronze cause of the combined total.

Wait Ondra went from gold to 6th because of the Austrian? This all seems rather random.
 
Wait Ondra went from gold to 6th because of the Austrian? This all seems rather random.
No I mixed it up. Commentator said, if the Austrian passed Lopez mark, it would make Coleman the gold winner and Lopez second, but if the Austrian beat Ondra's score, it would kick Coleman down 1 place and make Lopez the gold medal winner, which is what happened. I think :nervous:
 
What the hell just happened? What a complete farce of scoring. :lol: I'm happy climbing is finally represented but seriously, this needs a complete overhaul next time. Starting with the most obvious: three separate disciplines ffs. You don't ask an endurance runner to compete in the sprint.

They’ll be separate disciplines at the next olympics. The IOC only offered the IFSC one medal for Tokyo. So they went with the combined format to give all three sports a showcase. Not ideal but probably the best option.

Was cracking entertainment anyway. Hopefully picked up a lot of new fans. The end was incredible.
 
They’ll be separate disciplines at the next olympics. The IOC only offered the IFSC one medal for Tokyo. So they went with the combined format to give all three sports a showcase. Not ideal but probably the best option.

Was cracking entertainment anyway. Hopefully picked up a lot of new fans. The end was incredible.
Yeah I've heard from a lot of people that they enjoyed watching it, so definitely a positive. Although a lot of people were talking specifically about the speed climbing, at which I'm just sitting there shaking my head. I always considered it a bit of a joke discipline, to be honest... Lead and bouldering is the bread and butter.
 
Yeah I've heard from a lot of people that they enjoyed watching it, so definitely a positive. Although a lot of people were talking specifically about the speed climbing, at which I'm just sitting there shaking my head. I always considered it a bit of a joke discipline, to be honest... Lead and bouldering is the bread and butter.
I've thoroughly enjoyed all 3. I heard a lot of the commentary regarding how speed wasn't most of these guys first discipline, but those who had speed as their main, had to really do well in speed as the others had advantage in the bouldering and lead. In the end, it seemed to even itself out kinda, but yeah, it would be better if they separated it next time.
 
I've thoroughly enjoyed all 3. I heard a lot of the commentary regarding how speed wasn't most of these guys first discipline, but those who had speed as their main, had to really do well in speed as the others had advantage in the bouldering and lead. In the end, it seemed to even itself out kinda, but yeah, it would be better if they separated it next time.
I'm looking at it from the perspective of a climber, not a viewer. I can see why speed climbing is fun to watch, but as a sport, meh. Climbing the same thing over and over. Problem solving, finding beta, that's a huge part of climbing for me. That just doesn't exist in speed climbing. Also, in terms of route difficulty, an average climber should be able to top the speed wall, while they haven't got a chance in hell of getting up the boulder problems or lead routes.
 
Must be surreal for Lopez. Only 18 and he has beaten all these guys for the gold, no one was even really speaking about him much in all the events, it was all on Ondra, Narasaki and others. What a feat!
 
I'm looking at it from the perspective of a climber, not a viewer. I can see why speed climbing is fun to watch, but as a sport, meh. Climbing the same thing over and over. Problem solving, finding beta, that's a huge part of climbing for me. That just doesn't exist in speed climbing. Also, in terms of route difficulty, an average climber should be able to top the speed wall, while they haven't got a chance in hell of getting up the boulder problems or lead routes.
Make sense, 100%.
 
Yeah I've heard from a lot of people that they enjoyed watching it, so definitely a positive. Although a lot of people were talking specifically about the speed climbing, at which I'm just sitting there shaking my head. I always considered it a bit of a joke discipline, to be honest... Lead and bouldering is the bread and butter.

Speed’s the only one I haven’t done so is a bit less interesting to me, personally. It does make great entertainment though.

In a weird way I wonder if having such mixed abilities made speed more interesting? It made the experts look even more impressive. When the whole field is clocking 6 seconds or less it might be harder to appreciate how insanely impressive that is.
 
Is fifa 21 in the Olympics? Might fancy a Gold medal for that. If I trained a bit. I'm the best player on my island.
 
I'm looking at it from the perspective of a climber, not a viewer. I can see why speed climbing is fun to watch, but as a sport, meh. Climbing the same thing over and over. Problem solving, finding beta, that's a huge part of climbing for me. That just doesn't exist in speed climbing. Also, in terms of route difficulty, an average climber should be able to top the speed wall, while they haven't got a chance in hell of getting up the boulder problems or lead routes.

That’s like saying everyone can run 100m but not everyone can run a marathon. Technically true but…
 
That’s like saying everyone can run 100m but not everyone can run a marathon.
I wouldn't say it's comparable but I get your point. Anyone could walk/run a marathon given enough time and rest in between though. I couldn't do all of the competition boulder moves even if was allowed to take a full day's rest in between. :lol:
 
I wouldn't say it's comparable but I get your point. Anyone could walk/run a marathon given enough time and rest in between though. I couldn't do all of the competition boulder moves even if was allowed to take a full day's rest in between. :lol:

I’m being a bit pedantic but you do have to see it from non-climbers point of view. Boulders 1 and 3 must have been pretty dull for the casual viewer today. Whereas the speed climbing was absolutely gripping.
 
Can't understand why they have to wear the masks up on the podium when they literally in the same bubble and are a meter or so apart, but I guess its necessary for optics and in case someone actually does contract it somehow and then pass it on because they not wearing their mask.
EDIT: But they take it off for a quick pic also though, which then at least is fine. Can stay with it on for the rest of the time.
 
I’m being a bit pedantic but you do have to see it from non-climbers point of view. Boulders 1 and 3 must have been pretty dull for the casual viewer today. Whereas the speed climbing was absolutely gripping.
True enough, bouldering probably works better as a highlights package rather than a full broadcast for most viewers.