the final match has now been played at this legendary stadium, next year is a new start - good article here about the last game ...
Adios, San Mames, Adios
http://www.just-football.com/2013/05/athletic-bilbao-san-mames-adios/
Athletic Bilbao are a unique club. Incomparable to any other in world football, perhaps. An emblem of regional pride, the foremost symbol of the Basque Country, history will be made in Spain this weekend when Athletic play their last ever league match at the iconic San Mamés stadium, their home for 100 years.
Football clubs around the world often claim to be the focal point of their local communities. The idea that a football team stands as a beacon to represent the hopes and dreams of the local area is one sold by chairmen and opportunistic marketing men even today, in an era when clubs are owned by billionaire oligarchs from thousands of miles away, field eleven foreign players without batting an eyelid and dream up
ever more adventurous ways of displacing the club from its roots in the name of the paper chase.
Athletic Bilbao are different.
A Basque-only recruitment policy means that for 115 years since their founding in 1898 (officially in 1901, but don’t let anyone in Bilbao hear you say that), only players of Basque heritage have been allowed to play for the club.
This along with a proud history and the fact they are for all intents and purposes a one-club city (San Sebastian is some 100 kilometres away) endows the club with a palpably fierce local pride. Put simply, Athletic Bilbao
is the local community.
Nicknamed
La Catedral (the cathedral), San Mamés is like a place of worship for Athletic fans. It was built in 1913 and funded by
socios (members) who run the club to this day. It took a mere seven months to build and was the first major purpose-built football stadium in Spain, named so because of its proximity to Saint Mammes church, hence the nickname La Catedral.
Its place in Spanish football history is assured thanks to the successes of Athletic Bilbao, whose eight league titles make them the fourth most successful club in Spain after Real Madrid, Barcelona and Atletico Madrid and places fourth in the all-time La Liga table. An achievement of some repute, given their Basque only policy restricts player recruitment to a catchment area of roughly three million people. Athletic are also in an elite group of three Spanish teams to have never been relegated.
It is not just history, however, that provides Athletic Bilbao its distinct charm. Success on the field has played its part, sure, but that one-club city feeling also bestows upon Athletic a unique aura.
“We see ourselves as unique in world football and this defines our identity,” wrote former club president Jose Maria Arrate in an introduction to the club’s centenary book.
“We only wish for the sons of our soil to represent our club, and in so wishing we stand out as a sporting entity, not a business concept.”
A trip to San Mamés gives these words resonance. The stadium stands out like some ancient relic, a shrine to Bilbao and emblem of the city’s identity. Around the ground, as around the whole city, the club’s red and white colours are everywhere – painted on garage walls, gates, bike racks. Even the napkins in coffee shops are adorned with the club crest and the words
“Aupa Athletic” (go Athletic).
100 years of San Mames
I went to Bilbao for their penultimate league game at San Mamés, against Real Mallorca. On the day of the game, outside the
tiendas and
cafés young children in Athletic shirts kicked a ball about in the shadows of San Mamés, dreaming of one day following in their forefathers’ footsteps, the stadium towering over them like a colossus. You will not find a Real Madrid or Barcelona shirt anywhere in sight.
In Bilbao they do things their own way. They drink
Kalimotxo and
Pacharan. The match programme is written in Euskara first (ancestral Basque language), Spanish second.
Inside, the teamsheet lists the birthplaces of all the players. Nafarroa. Bizkaia (Biscay). Araba. Gipuzkoa. Nafarroa. Bizkaia. Bizkaia. Gipuzkoa. All provinces of the Basque Country. Only Aymeric Laporte (France) and Fernando Amorebieta (Venezuela) have birthplaces outside the seven Basque provinces. Jonas Ramalho, the club’s
first black player, descended from an Angolan father and Basque mother, is from Bizkaia.
On matchday a certain energy fills the air. One club cities like Newcastle have it too, but this is different. Athletic Bilbao is the personification of Basque life and what it means to be Basque.
“A Bilbao without San Mamés would be like Paris without the Eiffel Tower,” the French former Bilbao coach Luis Fernandez once quipped.
“Es un sentimiento”
Almost everyone I spoke to leading up to kick-off gave the same answer when I asked them to sum up Athletic Bilbao.
“Es un sentimiento”. It’s a feeling. A way of life.
“We are a race, a family,” said Andoni, a 29-year-old matchgoing fan. “You’re Athletic from birth until death. You carry the club in your heart. We are all from here, we’re all Basque. That creates a different sentiment to teams like Real Madrid or Barcelona who just want to win. We want to win, of course, but the feeling at Athletic is unique.”
Of course there is a flipside to Athletic’s
cantera policy. The idea of a club excluding players based on where they come from could be interpreted as restrictive and cliquish – discriminatory even. That wasn’t the feeling I got from my time in Bilbao however. Far from it.
Personally I was received with a warmth and generosity that left me almost overwhelmed. Supporters who I had known for no longer than a few minutes went out of their way to help me find a ticket.
They plied us with rounds of kalimotxo (a traditional Basque drink mixing coke and red wine) and refused our offers to pay. Even after the game, people we had exchanged but a few words with in the street earlier came up to us asking of our well-being, wondering if we managed to find a ticket and did we enjoy the game.
Kalimotxo! Traditional Basque drink
Monro Bryce, an ex-patriate Real Mallorca season ticket holder from Scotland, was at San Mamés for the second time and was wholesome in his praise for Athletic Bilbao.
“These are the best supporters in Spanish football by a mile,” he told
Just Football.
One Mallorca fan, who had travelled with his 77-year-old father to see San Mamés for the first time, was so overwhelmed by the friendliness of his hosts that he
wrote a thankyou letter to an Athletic fansite.
“La manera inglesa” – The English way
Old and creaking, the inside of San Mamés is very much like an old school English football ground. Indeed, Athletic have a reputation as being the closest thing in Spain to an English football club.
Their history backs this up too; Athletic have had several English managers including the famous Freddie Pentland, a revered figure and one of the most successful managers in the club’s history.
La manera inglesa (the English way) is a style of football adopted by many Athletic managers since.
40,000 supporters cheered Athletic on to a 2-1 victory against Real Mallorca, a result which all but saw them safe for another season, maintaining their ‘never-relegated’ status. The new stadium, San Mames Barria, cost around €200million to build and will hold over 53,000. Athletic’s win over Mallorca ensures it will showcase top-flight football in its inaugural year.
“This weekend we must all make sure San Mames roars and trembles,” wrote Arantza Garcés, a journalist for the Basque sports newspaper Beste Bat ahead of the famous old ground’s penultimate league game – a sentiment that doubtless applies also to the last ever league game against Levante on Sunday.
“We must make ourselves heard so that not only Basques remember La Catedral. Wherever you may be, this stadium will always be part of the history of Bilbao. Adios, San Mames. Adios.”